Rock climbing at Stetind and around Narvik
Stetind is Norway’s National Mountain, and is a great place for rock climbers and Alpinists. The beautiful surroundings, the spectacular positions and clean-cut rock features make Stetind a unique mountain that is often likened to a smaller version of the Matterhorn. This granite peak and sweeping ridges rise straight from the fjord to a height of 1,392m.
Map of the rock climbing areas around Narvik including Stetind Mountain
The style of climbing is very much on long alpine style, multi-pitch routes up to 20-pitches long. The classic routes are;
- Normalveien (standard route) that has only 1 pitch of actual climbing (4+ or F4) but plenty of scrambling with dizzy exposure along a razor sharp ridge
- Sydpilaren (South Pillar) involves 13-pitches of pure rock climbing graded at 6-, or F5b/c.
- Vestveggen (West Face) is 8-pitches of climbing (6+) to the main ridge. The summit is then reached via the west ridge that comprises of 300m of easy scrambling followed by 6-pitches of climbing (6, or F6a).
The best time to climb at Stetind is from July to September as there is a risk of snow on the higher ledges earlier in the year.
The photograph shows the classic peak of Stetind. The Sydpilaren (South Pillar) route is in the centre of this south face.
If the weather is not suitable to climb Stetind then there are other climbing areas around Narvik. On the rural island of Hamarøy is the peak of Hamarøyskaftet (512m high) that has spectacular views from the top. Also at Hamarøy there is more picturesque sport climbing above a lake. There are large granite walls at Efjord and Skjomen. Skjomen has both sport and trad routes, is very remote and has lots of potential to add new routes. Around the regional centre of Narvik, there are many sport crags that are easily accessible. The midnight sun period in Narvik stretches from the end of May to mid-July, making it a great place to climb from May through to September.
The Rockfax Lofoten Climbs Guidebook describes 9 long alpine style routes to the summit of Stetind. It also covers a further 10 long alpine style routes in the Stetind area, plus 66 routes in the Narvik area (mainly sport routes). Buy this guidebook covering the rock climbing around Stetind and around Narvik from our shop.