Rock Climbing at Muzzerone
The rock climbing at Muzzerone offers some dramatic sea cliff climbing close to the town of La Spezia, on the Levante Coast. This wild environment is one of the most beautiful climbing areas in the world, due to the unspoilt nature of the crags and their position by the sea.
The sea cliffs of Muzzerone are made up of 20 separate limestone crags that are characterised by pillars of limestone rock dropping down to the sea. There is a wide range of climbing styles to be found at Muzzerone, from slabs and vertical walls, to overhanging routes across a wide range of climbing grades (F4+ to F8b). The vast majority of the routes are graded from F5a to F7c, and are easily accessible, with a typical approach time between 10 and 25 minutes.
The routes at Muzzerone are sensibly bolted with both single pitch sport routes and multi-pitch routes up to 270m long. These long multi-pitch routes start from just above the sea with many of them in the mid grades. However a significant number of the multi-pitch routes are between 2 or 3 pitches long.
The other rock climbing areas dotted along the coast between Sestri Lavante and La Spezia are also on bolted limestone rock, with the vast majority of the routes being single pitch. There is even some newly developed Deep Water Soloing (DWS) to be found at Punta Bianco.
The information shown on the map and in the table has been extracted from the Muzzerone Rock Climbing Guidebook, and is available to buy from our shop.
Map of the rock climbing areas on the Levante coast including Muzzerone
| No | Crag | Total No of Routes | Up to F5 | F5 | F6 | F7 | F8 and above | Single or Multi-pitch |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Muzzerone | 423 | 2 | 97 | 196 | 115 | 13 | Both |
| 2 | Rocchetta | 32 | 11 | 15 | 5 | 1 | 0 | Single |
| 3 | Monte Marcello | 31 | 0 | 4 | 19 | 6 | 2 | Single |
| 4 | Punta Bianco | 14 | 0 | 0 | 3 | 7 | 4 | DWS |
| 5 | Castellana | 27 | 4 | 12 | 10 | 1 | 0 | Both |
| 6 | Sant' Anna | 29 | 0 | 2 | 24 | 2 | 1 | Single |
| 7 | Punta Manara | 73 | 6 | 12 | 40 | 13 | 2 | Single |
| 8 | Moneglia | 33 | 1 | 7 | 22 | 2 | 1 | Single |
| 9 | Deiva Marina | 54 | 8 | 14 | 26 | 5 | 1 | Single |
Muzzerone Climbing Logistics
Getting there - The rock climbing around Muzzerone is easily reached from Genova airport, where hire cars can be collected from. Fast roads quickly lead to La Spezia, and the climbing is reached via the village of Le Grazie, down narrow twisty lanes. There is a limited amount of accommodation available in Le Grazie.
Climbing season - The best time of the year to visit to go rock climbing in Muzzerone is in the autumn and spring, though it is possible to climb during the winter months as the majority of the crags face south west. During the summer it is only possible to climb in the early mornings due to the heat and orientation of the crags.
The Rock Climbing in Muzzerone Guidebook is the definitive guidebook for Muzzerone and the surrounding area. It includes more than 700 routes, of which more than 400 are at Muzzerone, and is available from our shop.