Ulassai and Jerzu sport climbing

The villages of Ulassai, Jerzu and Osini provide over 1,200 quality sport routes across a wide range of grades from F4’s to F9a.

The majority of this climbing is concentrated around the beautiful ancient village of Ulassai, where there are over 800 single pitch sport routes. Here there is the right combination of exceptional limestone rock, a climber friendly atmosphere, and a high concentration of quality routes – making Ulassai one of the best sport climbing areas is Sardinia.

The largest crag is called the Canyon Sa Tappara that towers over Ulassai and is just 1 of 23 crags that surround the village, in all different orientations. The range and style of climbing found at Ulassai is huge, with slabs, steep vertical walls, and overhanging rock to choose from. There is everything from jugs and crimps to pockets and the odd tufa that provide a great variety of climbing on rough limestone rock. This is reflected in the wide range of grades found at Ulassai (F4’s to F9a) with many of the routes being technical and sustained. There are a reasonable number of F4’s and F5’s, however Ulassai is superb for the mid-grade climber with most of the routes in the F6’s and F7’s.

The neighbouring village Jerzu also offers some great sport climbing and is often quieter than Ulassai. The first routes were bolted in the early 90’s and there are now over 240 routes here, mainly on good grey limestone rock. There are 7 sectors with the 3 largest being Il Castello, Isola del Tesoro and Palazzo d'Inverno - one of the best summer crags in Sardinia.

Baunei is only an hour’s drive away where there are many more sport climbing and multi-pitch climbing areas.

When is the best time of the year to climb at Ulassai and Jerzu?  Ulassai is at an altitude of just under 800m, the best time of the year to climb at Ulassai and Jerzu is from is from March until December. However, it is possible to climb all year round as the routes face all directions so there are lots of shaded walls for hot days (even in July) and sunny walls for the colder days.

What climbing guidebooks are available for Ulassai and Jerzu?  The 5th edition of the definitive Ulassai and Jerzu Rock Climbing Guidebook details almost 1,300 routes at Ulassai, Jerzu, Osini and Ussassai. This is a locally published guidebook, where the profits are used for the bolting and re-bolting of routes in the Ulassai area. The selective Eastern Sardinia Guidebook also covers many routes at Ulassai and Jerzu, along with those at Baunei, Gala Gonone, Oliena and Quirra.

What gear is required for climbing at Ulassai and Jerzu? A 70m rope will be sufficient for climbing the majority of the routes at Ulassai and Jerzu. There are a few routes longer than 35m, though these are clearly indicated in the definitive Ulassai and Jerzu Guidebook. In addition, just standard sport climbing gear and bring 16 quickdraws.

Getting to Ulassai and Jerzu. The closest airport is 100km away at Cagliari, with Olbia airport (185km) being another popular option.