Rock climbing in the Sierra de Prades Mountains

The excellent Sierra de Prades Mountains (also known as the Costa Daurada climbing area) are close to the towns of Reus and Tarragona to the south of Barcelona. These predominantly limestone and conglomerate mountains rise steeply from the coast and many of the climbing areas are at an altitude between 500m and 1000m.  Here there are 11 major crags including Siurana, Margalef,Montsant, and La Mussara.

There are 11 major sports areas with nearly 9,000 routes in the Sierra de Prades Mountains, of which the majority are single or 2-pitch routes.  The mixture of limestone or conglomerate rock is usually of an excellent standard and there is a wide range of grades to suit all levels and styles. To the north there are also 2 sandstone bouldering areas, with the main one being El Cogul, along with some extensive bouldering at Arboli, where there is also sport climbing.

Siurana is undoubtable the Queen of sport climbing in the Sierra de Prades Mountains. The tiny village of Siurana is situated above a beautiful canyon with stunning limestone crags in all directions. Here there are over 2,000 routes ranging from F3 to F9b+. The routes typically feature small, sharp crimps and side pulls on vertical or gently overhanging walls of superb, rough limestone. 

Siurana’s position, along with its charm and high standard quality routes make this area one of the most popular winter rock climbing destinations in Europe, with great climbing conditions from autumn through to spring. The Siurana rock climbing guidebook is the definitive guidebook for the area and is available to buy from our shop.

Margalef is the second largest area with around 2,000 sport routes ranging from F4 to F9b+. Discover more sport climbing at Margalef.   The Sport Climbing Guidebook for Margalef is the definitive guidebook for the area and is available to buy from our shop.

Montsant has over 700 routes on very solid and compact conglomerate rock with many pockets. Here the various crags are up to 200m long that are conveniently split into tiers linked by spectacular paths and ladders.  The current guidebook for the area is called Montsant Vertiente sur, and is available to buy from our shop.

Situated at 1,000m, La Mussara is a large area split into various crags, each with different characteristics, including some multi-pitch routes. The grades here are concentrated in the F5 to F7a range on good quality conglomerate rock.

When to go – With the majority of the climbing areas at an altitude of 500m to 1,000m, the best time to visit this area is in the spring or autumn when the temperature is ideal for rock climbing. During the winter the climate is not as stable though there are many cold, dry sunny days when the friction is at its best. The summer is just too hot though in a few areas (such as Margalef) it is possible to find shade.

Getting there – The closest airport is Rues, though the main airport at Barcelona is not that much further. To make the most of the crags in this area a car is necessary.

Gear – Whilst a 60m rope will be sufficient for the majority of routes it is recommended that you take a 70m or even an 80m rope as these are standard for sport climbing in Spain now. Around 15 to 20 quickdraws plus the usual lower off gear is all that is required. 

Climbing Guidebooks - Climb Europe currently stocks several guidebooks for the Sierra de Prades Mountains, these being:

Tarragona Climbs is a selective guidebook to the Sierra de Prades Mountains covering 11 crags includes Siurana, Montsant, La Mussara and Margalef, describing almost 5,000 routes.

Plus definitive guidebooks for Margalef, Siurana and Montsant.  All these guidebooks are available to buy from our shop.