Cadiz Rock Climbing and Sport Climbing
There are many rock climbing areas in the Province of Cadiz, the most southern part of Spain, as shown below.
| No | Crag Name | Type of Rock | Single or Multi-pitch |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | San Bartolo | Sandstone | Both |
| 2 | Benaocaz | Limestone | Single |
| 3 | Grazalema | Limestone | Both |
| 4 | Pena de la Plata | Limestone | Single |
| 5 | El Bujeo | Limestone | Single |
| 6 | Pena Arpada | Limestone | Single |
| 7 | El Hondon | Limestone | Single |
| 8 | Montejaque | Limestone | Both |
| 9 | La Canada | Limestone | Single |
| 10 | La Fuentecilla | Limestone | Single |
| 11 | La Muela | Limestone | Both |
| 12 | El Gastor | Limestone | Multi-pitch |
Map of the rock climbing areas around Cadiz in southern Spain
San Bartolo is the best crag in the Cadiz area with over 250 routes on good quality sandstone rock. The upper sector has a mixture of trad and sport routes across a wide range of grades, with some multi-pitch routes up to 75m long. The lower sector is exclusively sport routes with a massive range of grades (most of which are fairly pumpy) and superb rock formations.
Benaocaz crag is made up of 3 sectors around the small village of Benaocaz. There are over 100 bolted sport routes with the majority of the routes ranging from F5 to F7a. The crag is at an altitude of over 700m and the different sectors race lots of different directions. Therefore it is possible to climb here throughout the year with the exception of the hot summer months.
Grazalema crag is made up of many different sectors in 3 mains areas, which are Pena Loja Y Talos Coloraos, Penon Grande de Grazalema, and Aguja. In total there are around 150 routes on limestone rock. For sport climbing then the Pena Loja Y Talos Coloraos area is the most extensive, with more than half the routes graded at F7a and above. However it is the Penon Grande de Grazalema that provides the most impressive routes. Spread over several sectors the routes are up to 230m long that are mixture of trad and sport, across a wide range of grades.
The Penon del Lagarin at El Gastor is another impressive limestone crag. Though there are only 3 routes here they range from 240m to 260m long. This is a great crag for those who climb in the lower grades around F5 to F6 and are looking an adventurous day out.
The Cadiz rock climbing guidebook is the most comprehensive guidebook for the region and covers all of the 12 crags described here.
The Andalucia rock climbing guidebook is a selective guidebook covering the whole of Andalucia, and it only includes routes at San Bartolo, Benaocaz, and Grazalema.
Buy these rock climbing guidebook for Cadiz from our shop.