Basque rock climbing
There are 17 significant rock climbing areas in the Basque Country around the towns of Bilbao, Vitoria, and Pampiona. However the largest crag in the Basque area is called Etxauri with around 800 routes.
No | Crag | Aspect | Grade Range | Maximum Height |
---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Apellaniz | Various | F4c to F8c+ | 25m |
2 | Araotz | Various | F4c to F8c+ | 35m |
3 | Atauri | S | F5c to F8a | 30m |
4 | Atxarte | Various | F4b to F8b | 120m |
5 | Baltzola | SE, S, SW | F6a+ to F9a | 30m |
6 | Etxauri | Mainly S | F3a to F9a | 120m |
7 | Galdames | Various | F4c to F8b+ | 30m |
8 | Itoitz | S | F4c to 8b+ | 32m |
9 | Larraona | S, SW | F6c to F9a | 45m |
10 | Lezaia | SW | F7b to F8c+ | 20m |
11 | Mugarra | S, SW | F5b to F8c+ | 45m |
12 | Penartea | Various | F4a to F6b+ | 50m |
13 | Putreen Behatokia | S | F5c to F7c | 50m |
14 | Salvatierra de Esca | Various | F4c to F8a | 30m |
15 | San Fausto | S, SW, W | F4c to F8a+ | 35m |
16 | Sarabe | W, S | F5c to F8a | 30m |
17 | Valdegovia | Various | F4c to F9a | 25m |
Rock climbing at Etxauri
Etxauri is the classic Basque crag that dominates the hillside in a beautiful location. The climbing is on good quality limestone rock and offers single pitch sport routes, many 2-pitch routes of around 50m long, and some multi-pitch routes up to 120m long. With around 800 routes from F3 to F9a there is something for everyone across a wide range of styles. Most of the routes are very technical utilising little crimps and requiring good footwork on steep slabs, vertical walls and slightly overhanging faces. However you will also find routes that have cracks and corners as well.
Etxauri is located only 13km from Pampiona with the various sectors reached with a 10 to 20 minute walk from the car park. The crag mainly faces south so the best time to climb at Etxauri is in the autumn and spring, along with sunny winter days. The summer is just too hot. Access to the Basque country from abroad is easy with airports at Bilbao, Vitoria or San Sebastian providing many options.
Euskalarria is the name of the guidebook that covers all the sport climbing in the Basque Country. Buy this guidebook from our shop.
Other rock climbing areas in the Basque Country
The map shows the main rock climbing areas in the Basque Country with San Fausto, Lezaia, Araotz, Baltzola, and Putreenbehatokia being some of the largest and best crags after Etxauri. Many of the crags have sectors that face numerous directions that mean it is always possible to find the sun or shade depending upon the time of year. All of these crags are also covered in the Sport Climbing in The Basque Country guidebook, called Euskalarria.