Rock Climbing and Sport Climbing in Cala Gonone
Cala Gonone has long been established as one of the main rock climbing areas in Sardinia and as such attracts many International visitors. Primarily the majority of the rock climbing here is single pitch sport routes, offering many different styles from slabs, steep walls and fierce overhangs on hard limestone rock.
There is some multi-pitch rock climbing to be found in Cala Gonone, though this tends to be easier routes (up to French 6a), which are not bolted at all, and are therefore protected using traditional nuts and cams. However there are exceptions to this notably; Grotta dei Colombi crag that has fully bolted routes up to 210m long in the 6b-6c grade range; and La Poltrona crag where all the routes are fully bolted across a wide range of grades. There is also some sea cliff climbing to be found at Biddiriscottai, Grotta dei Colombi, Millennium and Cala Luna.
For guided or instructed climbing holidays in Cala Gonone we recommend our friends at Rock & Sun.
Map of the rock climbing and sport climbing areas around Cala Gonone
| No | Region | Type of Climbing | Max Height | No of Routes | Grade Range | Single or Multi-pitch |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Cala Cartoe | Sport | 15m | 16 | 5a to 7a | Single |
| 2 | Margheddie | Sport/Trad | 150m | 115 | 4b to 8a | Both |
| 3 | Grotta dei Colombi | Sport/Trad | 210m | 18 | VI to 8a+ | Both |
| 4 | Millennium | Sport | 50m | 25 | 6a to 8c+ | Single |
| 5 | Biddiriscottai | Sport | 105m | 57 | 5b to 8a+ | Both |
| 6 | Arcadio (Monte Irveri) | Sport | 55m | 58 | 5c to 8a+ | Both |
| 7 | Alveare | Sport | 30m | 13 | 6b+ to 7b | Single |
| 8 | P. Serendippo (Budinetto) | Sport/Trad | 40m | 31 | 3c to 6b | Both |
| 9 | Placche Flintstones | Sport | 35m | 24 | 4c to 6b+ | Single |
| 10 | Budino | Sport/Trad | 220m | 23 | 3 to 6a+ | Both |
| 11 | La Poltrona | Sport | 175m | 71 | 4b to 8a | Both |
| 12 | S'atta Ruia (Dorgali) | Sport | 50m | 91 | 5a to 8a | Both |
| 13 | Falesia Scheel | Sport | 30m | 7 | 6b to 7b+ | Single |
| 14 | I Tornanti | Sport | 20m | 37 | 5c to 7b+ | Single |
| 15 | Monte Bonacoa | Sport | 30m | 35 | 5a to 6b+ | Single |
| 16 | Aguaplano | Sport | 35m | 23 | 6a to 7c+ | Both |
| 17 | Ziu Martine | Sport | 30m | 7 | 6c+ to 8a | Single |
| 18 | Codula Fuili | Sport | 30m | 85 | 4a to 8b+ | Single |
| 19 | Cala Fuili | Sport | 70m | 141 | 5a to 8c | Both |
| 20 | Noce Secca | Sport | 30m | 22 | 6b to 8b+ | Single |
| 21 | L'ottavo Nano | Sport | 25m | 14 | 5b to 6c | Single |
| 22 | Cuccuru 'e Su Carvu | Sport | 30m | 9 | 7b to 8a | Single |
| 23 | Buchi Arta | Sport | 30m | 48 | 5b to 7a | Single |
| 24 | Cala Luna | Sport | 75m | 58 | 5c to 8b+ | Both |
The Supramonte rock climbing guidebook is a selective guidebook covering 12 of the best crags in Cala Gonone. It also covers some single pitch crags around Urzulei, Oliena, and Lanaitto in the Supramonte Mountains that are quieter than those in Cala Gonone, but the quality is just as good.
The Eastern Sardinia Crags Guidebook is a selective guidebook covering 15 of the best crags in Cala Gonone. It also covers many more crags around Baunei, Jerzu, and Ulassai.
Buy all of these guidebooks for Cala Gonone from our shop.
Cala Gonone Climbing Logistics and Beta
For the majority of the single pitch sport routes a single 60m rope and up to 16 quickdraws will be sufficient. For those looking to climb the long multi-pitch routes, then duel ropes and a full lead rock with nuts and friends is advisable.
The best time to go rock climbing in Cala Gonone is from the autumn through to the spring as it is just too hot in the summer months.