Hægefjell Bouldering and Rock Climbing
Hægefjell is a magnificent granite dome tucked among the small but rugged mountains of the Telemark region of southern Norway, to the southwest of Oslo. Hægefjell is close to Lake Nisser and offers both bouldering and long multi-pitch climbing on excellent granite rock.
Bouldering at Hægefjell
The bouldering at Hægefjell is located around Landtakdammen (Landtak dam), where all the bouldering is within a 5 to 15 minute walk from the car. There are over 180 boulder problems across a wide range of grades from Fb 3 to Fb 8a. Generally the landings at Hægefjell are good (requiring only 1 mat), though some problems do require multiple mats and spotters.
The bouldering at Hægefjell is split into 4 areas that are all close together. The 4 bouldering areas are Haegefjelltjorni, Meandersvingen, Sjefsteinen, and Det torre elveleiet.
Multi-pitch rock climbing at Hægefjell
The granite dome of Hægefjell offers some fantastic long multi-pitch rock routes up to 500m long. There are over 50 independent routes at Hægefjell characterised by long slabs, and fine cracks that are both solid and clean.
The style and ethics of climbing on Hægefjell is predominantly trad climbing using cams and nuts, with bolts are only placed when necessary and in a way that preserves the element of adventure. This means that bolts are a means of protection, and not path markers. An integral part of climbing at Hægefjell is to read the weaknesses in the rock and by this means to find the safest and easiest passage towards the next place where protection can be placed. The belays tend to be bolted, and many of the bolts are modern, having been replaced during 2019.
Hægefjell rock climbing logistics and beta
The Hægefjell Rock Climbing and Bouldering Guidebook describes all the bouldering and 16 selected multi-pitch routes ranging between Norwegian 5- to 8- that equates to French 5a to 7b. Buy the Hægefjell Rock Climbing and Bouldering Guidebook from our shop.
The majority of climbers camp at Landtakdammen (Landtak dam) though this is very basic, with alternative sites next to Lake Nisser.
The best time to boulder and rock climb at Hægefjell is during May, June and August. It is possible to climbing in July, but the area is infested with insects that can make life unpleasant, and climbers tend to use the camping at Lake Nisser during this period.
Getting to Hægefjell is relatively easy. From northern mainland Europe access via Denmark is straight forward with a ferry to Kristiansand being the quickest route. Alternatively fly into either Oslo or Stavanger, which is then a 4-hour drive to Hægefjell.