Rock climbing in Mexico

There is a wealth of different types of rock climbing to be found in Mexico, including sport climbing, traditional climbing, big wall routes (up to 700m long) and bouldering that exist all over the country. Mexico has a great diversity of ecosystems with forests, deserts, and mountains, providing all types of rock from granite, sandstone, basalt, to quartzite, and limestone.

El Potrero Chico is the best known rock climbing area in Mexico with hundreds of limestone sport routes and multi-pitch routes. Also, in the north of Mexico there are big wall routes at La Huasteca, the giant waterfall wall at Basaseachic, and at Canon Tajo. Close to Mexico City there are a number of excellent sport climbing areas, particularly at Jilotepec. The best bouldering area in Mexico is at Penoles, with Catavina, Chico National Park and El Diente near Guadalajara also being very good.

El Potrero Chico is undoubtedly the best known and largest rock climbing area in Mexico, with its towering mountains in the arid Chihuahuan desert. It is near the northern city of Monterrey in the state of Nuevo that is located in the northwest of Mexico close to the border with Texas of the USA.

El Potrero Chico is a sport climber’s haven with hundreds of single and multi-pitch routes on good quality limestone rock. Some of these routes are long, particularly on the wall of El Toro (The Bull), where there are many routes up to 800m long. However, the vast majority of the routes are sport routes, with something for everyone, from steep overhangs to easy slabs, with the majority of routes between 5.8 and 5.13 (French 4+ to 8a). There is a choice between 1, 3, 10, and 20 pitch routes on bolted limestone rock. Though the rock can be sharp there are plenty of crimps and pockets.

The best time to climb at El Potrero Chico is from mid-December through to mid-March, with late February offering the very best conditions. With regards to gear, a minimum 60m long rope is essential for the single pitch sport routes and twin 60m long ropes are recommended for the multi-pitch routes. Bring along around 20 quickdraws and even though the routes are bolted a small set of nuts are useful.

Northern Mexico offers some great big wall climbing at places such as Basaseachic, and the Great White Throne at Canon Tajo, plus some world class bouldering at Penoles.

Canyon Tajo is composed of beautiful granite domes which are filled with many excellent mixed, trad and sport routes (these last ones mostly on slabs), and is very similar to Joshua Tree in California (though much less crowded). Canyon Tajo is located close to the border with the USA the whole area is wild and barren, providing a magical climbing experience, in an environment of great beauty. The largest granite dome is called The Great White Throne that offers multi-pitch big wall routes up to 600m long.

Penoles is a Mexican gem for bouldering and one of the world’s top bouldering destinations. This amazing spot is located on a desert plateau filled with hundreds of huge granite blocks with a unique texture and surprising shapes, providing some fabulous bouldering.

Around Mexico City and Guadalajara in the south of the country many climbing areas have been developed, offering sport, trad and bouldering options.

To the south of Mexico City is the huge cave at Chontacoatian that has some of the hardest sport climbs in Mexico. Closer to Mexico City there is the excellent sport climbing at Jilotepec and Los Dimamos, with Aculco offering the best trad climbing. For longer multi-pitch routes then Pena de Bernal and Chico National Park are the best areas that are situated to the north of Mexico City. Chico National Park is also the best bouldering area closest to the capital. Further north near San Luis is the excellent limestone sport climbing area of Guadalcazer with many overhanging routes with huge stalactites, tufas and pockets.

Close to Guadalajara there are several rock climbing areas with the granite blocks of El Diente being the best. Here there is excellent bouldering and sport climbing. However, the best sport climbing near Guadalajara is on the coast at Ixcatan with many excellent routes on first class basalt rock.