Rock climbing in the Orco Valley
The Orco Valley (Valle dell' Orco) is located in the Gran Paradiso National Park, which is situated to the north of Turin and west of Milan. The valley is about 6 km long, rising from an altitude of about 600m above sea level up to 2,500m. The Orco valley is famous for its gneiss crack climbing, which is said to be the best in the Western European Alps.
The super high quality gneiss rock of Gran Paradiso area has created great crags featuring compact slabs and perfect cracks – ideal for trad climbing. The famous epic big walls of Sergent, Caporal and the Torre di Aimonin provide long multi-pitch trad routes, which can be accessed with minimal walk-ins. The style of climbing involves plenty of amazing cracks, delicate slabs and some excellent face climbs across a wide range of grades. Generally the routes are well protected using trad gear such as cams and nuts, though the majority of the delays are bolted. Hence it is easy to retreat from routes if the weather closes in.
Map of the rock climbing areas in the Orco Valley
There are also many single pitch sport routes that line both sides of the valley around the villages of Ceresole Reale, Locana, and Sparone. This makes it easy to find the sun or shade depending upon the time of the year.
The bouldering scene is growing as there are many boulders that litter the valley floor, particularly around the main campsite. There is bouldering for everyone with grades from Fb5 to Fb8a. The style of the bouldering generally features slopers and crimps with good friction for the feet.
Orco Valley rock climbing logistics
Which Guidebook? The comprehensive guidebook for the Orco Valley is simply called Valle Dell’ Orco rock climbing guidebook. An alternative guidebook called Orco Valley – 100 selected crack climbs, describes 100 of the best trad crack routes in the Orco Valley. Buy both of these guidebooks for the Orco Valley from our shop.
Best time to climb? The best time to rock climbing in the Orco Valley is from late May through to early October.
How to get there? The best approach to Orco is to fly into Milan or Turin airport and hire a car. Most climbers stay at the camp site in the main valley.