Rock climbing around Corti including Restonica

The Gorges de la Restonica is at the heart of rock climbing and bouldering in Corsica. The Restonica valley runs southwest of Corti (Corte) and is surrounded by stunning granite peaks or gorges. This beautiful valley is one of the most scenic valleys in Corsica, with a raging river and charming mountain lakes.

The rock climbing within the Restonica valley stretches for over 10km, with crags on both side of the valley that are low lying as well as high up the mountains. The first crags appear within 1.5km from the centre of Corti, and these tend to be single pitch sport routes. Travelling further down the valley there are many multi-pitch routes ranging from 200m to 400m long as well as single pitch routes. Some of these routes are at an altitude of 2,000m and have an Alpine feel to them.

Restonica has many 100’s of routes offering a good mixture of climbing styles from; big slabs; technical vertical walls with cracks and corners; to overhangs and roofs. There is also a great range of grades from F4 up to F8b, with a good quantity of routes in the F5 to F7 range. The sheer quantity of rock here also means there is great potential for developing new routes.

The vast majority of the routes at Restonica are bolted and tend to be either 1 or 2 pitches long. These sport routes are covered in the Falaises de Corse guidebook. Many of the longer multi-pitch routes are trad routes requiring cams and nuts with hardly any bolts. The Grandes Voies de Corse guidebook (Trad and sport multi-pitch climbing in Corsica) covers a selection of the more popular multi-pitch routes at Restonica, with options for either fully bolted routes or more “Alpine style” Trad routes.

Restonica is also home to one of the largest bouldering areas in Corsica, with boulders spread throughout the Valley.

The best time to climb at Restonica is in the late spring/early summer or the autumn. As the crags are on both sides on the valley, they face numerous directions so the sun or shade can always be found depending upon your requirements.

Around Francardu (only 20 minutes from Corti) there are a series of limestone bolted crags. Here the rock climbing is mainly single pitch, with the majority of the grades from F6b upwards.  These crags are covered in the Falaises de Corse guidebook.

For long multi-pitch routes then in the areas of Ascu, Popolasca, Tavignano, and Verghellu there are many routes between 200m and 600m long.  These areas are more remote than the Restonica Valley making them a more series undertaking.  The lack of many bolts means they often require trad gear such as cam and nuts, along with challenging approaches and descents means they are more like an Alpine route. The Grandes Voies de Corse guidebook covers the best multi-pitch routes at Ascu, Popolasca, Tavignano, and Verghellu as well as Restonica.