New Ceuse Rock Climbing Guidebook
Beautiful blue and orange limestone rock, outstanding lines, perfectly formed pockets and a long heritage, all contribute to Ceuse being regarded as the best sport climbing crag in the world. Ceuse is located near Gap in the south of France, and is situated in a stunning location, perched on top of the hill, and viewed for miles around.
Ceuse certainly has an outstanding range of routes, and a style of climbing that is different to many other crags in the south of France. The style of climbing at Ceuse is all about pockets on blue and orange streaked limestone rock. The routes are long, steep, and sustained requiring plenty of stamina that range from overhanging jug feasts to steep technical walls. The crag is well bolted but for many of the routes these are spaced, particularly in the 2nd half of the route.
Despite the steepness of the crag, there is a wide variety of routes at Ceuse from F5s all the way to F9a. Ceuse is famous for its list of superb routes from F7a to F7c, though the quality of the routes outside this grade range is also exceptional. There are many sectors that also offer a good range of routes between F6a and F6c, along with some routes in the F5s. Ceuse can still be considered at the cutting edge of hard sport climbing with many routes in the F8s as well as a number of routes graded at F9a.
A new definitive Ceuse rock climbing guidebook has just been published that describes over 700 routes. The vast majority of them are sport routes, though there are some trad and bouldering routes as well.
At an altitude of 1,700m, the crag is shaped like a bowl, with sectors facing east, south and west so that it is always possible to find the sun or shade. The best time to climb at Ceuse is from late spring through to the autumn, and with cheap flights to either Grenoble, Nimes, Marseille, and Turin airports via several low cost airlines, now is the time to book that climbing holiday to Ceuse!
The new Ceuse Rock Climbing Guidebook covers over 700 routes at Ceuse from F5's to F9a.