Rock Climbing around Osp in Slovenia
Osp in southwest Slovenia is the undisputed centre of Slovenian climbing, attracting climbers from all over the world. The crag is a high U-shaped wall that sits above the old picturesque village of Osp. The quality of the limestone rock is superb with all the routes well bolted. Some of these routes are up to 140m long though there are also many single pitch routes. The style of climbing ranges from pleasant face climbs on vertical and slightly overhanging walls with sharp positive holds, to very overhanging routes that require stamina and determination. At Osp there are well over 200 routes across a wide range of grades. Also close by are 2 further crags; Misja Pec with its steep powerful single pitch routes mainly in the higher grades; and Crni Kal offers single pitch routes mainly in the lower grades.
Just across the border in Italy, there is rock climbing around Trieste, with 8 separate crags. Val Rosandra is the most extensive and it also offers some multi-pitch routes. South of Osp is the Istria region of Croatia where there are many excellent crags.
Map of the rock climbing areas around Osp and Trieste
| No | Crag | Total No of routes | Height of routes | General orientation of the crag |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Doberdo | 24 | 8 to 20m | South |
| 2 | Sistiana | 33 | 10 to 40m | Southeast |
| 3 | Aurisina | 25 | 7 to 20m | Northwest |
| 4 | Grotta Caterina | 23 | 7 to 20m | Northwest |
| 5 | Costiera | 63 | 10 to 40m | South |
| 6 | Santa Croce | 13 | 8 to 12m | Southeast |
| 7 | Napoleonica | 273 | 7 to 30m | South |
| 8 | Val Rosandra | 530 | 8 to 80m | South |
| 9 | Osp | 233 | 10 to 140m | West and South |
| 10 | Misja pec | 193 | 6 to 40m | South |
| 11 | Crni Kal | 281 | 12 to 35m | Southwest |
| 12 | Crnotice | 65 | 2m to 10m | Southwest |
| 13 | Risnik | 35 | 13m to 40m | South |
Osp Rock Climbing Logistics
The above information has been extracted from the Climbing without Frontiers guidebook that covers all the crags around Osp, Trieste and some in northern Croatia. Buy this Climbing without Frontiers guidebook from our shop.
An alternative guidebook for the area is called “Karst Edge”. This describes 20 crags; 12 in Slovenia including Osp, Misja pec and Crni Kal; plus 8 crags between Sistiana and Trieste in Italy. Buy this guidebook from our shop.
The Popular Climbing Routes in Slovenia guidebook describes the very best rock climbing routes in the Slovenian Mountains. This includes both mountaineering and pure multi-pitch rock climbing routes most of which are between 350m and 850m long. In total 101 routes are described covering some of Slovenia’s highest mountains such as Triglav, Jalovec and Travnik. Buy this book from our shop.
Getting to this excellent region is easy, with Trieste Airport close by and Ljubljana airport is 1 to 2 hour’s drive away. The obvious place to be based is at Osp where there is a campsite (open all year round), with both Osp and Misja Pec crags within walking distance. There is also accommodation in Osp as well, such as hotels and apartments. Alternatively there are many holiday apartments to rent on the coast.
Rock climbing at Osp is possible throughout the year through the ideal time is the spring and autumn. It can be cold and wet in the winter. With regards to gear a 70m rope is ideal though many routes are possible with a 60m rope. Around 15 quickdraws are usually sufficient.