Baunei rock climbing

Baunei in northern Ogliastra, is perhaps unique in Sardinia in offering all types of climbing. This ranges from single pitch sport routes to both fully bolted and trad multi-pitch routes, along with some deep water soloing (DWS) and bouldering. Some of the crags are in the mountains, which mean you can always find cool, shady crags in the summer as well as sunny low-level crags for the winter!

The climbing is found on many small and medium size crags dotted around Baunei and is always on top quality rough grey and white limestone rock. There are routes from F5’s to F8’s, with the style ranging from vertical walls with crimps and pockets to some steep routes with tufas. Some of the larger crags are Ichnusa/Campo dei Miracoli, Sistema Solare, Villaggio Gallico, and Greuza de Ma’, where there is a wide range of grades. Whilst at Braccio Di Ferro the overhanging walls and columns provide some of the hardest routes in Baunei up to F8b+.

The Baunei Sport Climbing Guidebook describes 30 different crags to the north and south of the town of Baunei. It covers 100’s of routes across a wide range of grades from F5’s to F8’s, including many multi-pitch routes. The selective Eastern Sardinia Guidebook also covers many routes around Baunei, along with those at Ulassai, Jerzu, Gala Gonone, Oliena and Quirra. Buy these guidebooks from our shop.

The best time to climb at Baunei is from September through to May. However, it is possible to climb all year round at Baunei, by choosing a sunny or shady sector depending on the temperature or wind. If it gets too hot then nearby Ulassai and Jerzu can offer some better climbing temperatures. The climbing around Baunei is great for families with kids as many crags have only a short approach (5 to 25 minutes).

The Baunei region is famous for its excellent multi-pitch routes, with both sport and trad options available. Here you will find the famous Aguglia di Goloritze pinnacle and Pedra Longa that offer some of the easiest multi-pitch routes in the area. Many of these easier routes start at around F6b/c though the obligatory grade is around F6a. This is the grade you have to be able to climb even when the bolt is below you and then aid through the harder sections.

At Punta Giradili routes such as Mediterraneo, 240m long at max F7a+/F6b obligatory and Wolfgang Güllich, 400m long at max 7a/6b obligatory have long been modern classics, though the bolts are well spaced! There are hard (grade F7 obligatory) routes on Giradili as well as Monte Ginnircu just next door, where you abseil into the multi-pitch routes.

The comprehensive guidebook that covers the multi-pitch routes in Ogliastra is called Sardinia – Trad and Multi-Pitch Climbing Guidebook.  This guidebook covers both trad and bolted multi-pitch routes, and is available to buy from our shop.

Near Lanusei at an altitude of 1,000m are the woods of Selene with their granite boulders, which offer good bouldering in the lower grades during the summer. Near Lotzorai, on the coast, there is also some good granite bouldering. There are also some limestone boulders at Serra Oseli.

With summer water temperatures up to 24°C, Sardinia is ideal for Deep Water Soloing (DWS). The best DWS is found at the Ogliastra end of the Gulf of Orosei, rather than the Cala Gonone end.

The Ogliastra region of Sardinia is also a great place to go mountain biking and walking. Discover more about mountain biking in Sardinia, with many great routes along cart and mule tracks left by shepherds and charcoal burners.

Discover more about walking in Sardinia including the famous Selvaggio Blu Trek that follows the wild coastline of Ogliastra.