Chaos de Targasonne Bouldering

The Chaos de Targasonne bouldering area, nestled in the French Pyrenees, is a top climbing spot recognized for its extensive array of granite boulders offering a good range of grades to suit everyone. The bouldering at Targasonne is world class and is considered as the second most important bouldering area in France after Fontainebleau. Known locally as “The Chaos”, it is located close near the town of Font Romeu on the border with Spain near Andorra.

There are around 1,600 bouldering problems at Targasonne, with grades to suit climbers of all abilities from Fb3 to Fb8b+. There is also a wide range of styles with plenty of slabs, walls and crimpy overhangs, with the rough granite providing good friction. The boulders themselves are between 3m and 4m high, so bouldering mats are essential though the landings are usually very good and flat. There are also family friendly areas with boulders for children.

What bouldering guidebooks are available for Targasonne? The definitive Chaos of Targasonne Bouldering Guidebook describes 1,600 problems ranging from Fb3 to Fb8b+ across 20 different sectors. All the problems are shown on colour photo topos as well as a comprehensive boulder maps.

When is the best time of the year to boulder at Targasonne? The bouldering at Targasonne is at an altitude of almost 1,600m, and the crag's south orientation means that it gets lots of sun during the day. The best seasons to boulder at Targasonne are in the spring and autumn, though it is possible to find shady areas during the summer.

What accommodation is available at Targasonne? There is a campsite called “La Griole Camping” that is situated within “The Chaos” or there are plenty of gites to rent in the area.

Getting to Targasonne? Fly to Perpignan or Barcelona. Drive into the Pyrenees Orientals and head towards Font Romeu. Targasonne is a village 5km west of Font Romeu.