Rock Climbing and sport climbing in Arkansas
Horseshoe Canyon Ranch is the best known and premier rock climbing and sport climbing destination in Arkansas. Whilst Horseshoe Canyon is undoubtable good, there are also other excellent crags in Arkansas such as Sam's Throne Region, Richard Creek Wilderness, and Cowell Region where you can find both sport and trad routes across a wide range of grades. The map shows all the rock climbing areas in Arkansas. Generally the climbing at Arkansas is all about single pitch routes on good quality sandstone rock.
Rock Climbing at Horseshoe Canyon Ranch
Horseshoe Canyon Ranch is one of America’s premiere rock climbing holiday destinations and is the flagship crag of Arkansas. Known locally as “The Ranch or HCR”, there are nearly 450 routes within walking distance of a campsite and rental cabins, which is located just 7 miles from Jasper. The majority of the routes are well-bolted sport routes, but there are also many excellent trad routes as well. The climbing is on sandstone rock that is vertical to slightly overhanging and is covered in holds, with the majority of the routes in the 5.5 to 5.11 grade range.
Rock Climbing at Mt. Magazine State Park
Mt. Magazine is Arkansas’ highest point that offers warm south-facing crags in a picturesque location. As long as the sun is shining it is also the best warm winter rock climbing in Arkansas. The sandstone rock at Mt. Magazine is bullet hard that provide very technical routes requiring good footwork rather than strong arms. There is a good split between sport routes and great moderate trad routes.
Map of the rock climbing areas in Arkansas
| No | Crag Name | Total No of Routes |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Horseshoe Canyon Ranch | 440 |
| 2 | Lincoln Lake | 91 |
| 3 | Shepherd Springs | 55 |
| 4 | Fern | 90 |
| 5 | Mulberry Valley | 20 |
| 6 | McCracken | 19 |
| 7 | Mt. Magazine | 93 |
| 8 | Darndanelle Rock | 32 |
| 9 | Haw Creek | 68 |
| 10 | Big Piney Region | 50 |
| 11 | Cowell Region | 119 |
| 12 | Sam's Throne Region | 584 |
| 13 | Richard Creek Wilderness | 204 |
| 14 | Calico Rock | 7 |
| 15 | Batesville | 93 |
Sport Climbing at Big Piney
The Big Piney Region is a relatively small crag but it is home to the largest collection of quality hard sport routes in Arkansas. To truly enjoy the climbing here you need to be climbing at around the 5.12 level though you will find many 4 and 5 star routes.
Rock Climbing in the Cowell Region
The Cowell Region is a collection of 10 separate crags with nearly 120 routes. The majority of the routes are sport routes, though the Cowell Region is also home to the best bouldering in Arkansas.
Rock Climbing at Sam’s Throne
The Sam’s Throne Region is home to Arkansas’ only true trad climbing area, which consists of 4 main areas. In total there are over 650 routes here across a wide range of grades, including a small number of sport routes.
Rock Climbing at Richard Creek Wilderness
Richard Creek is all about trad climbing in a remote and glorious location. For those who are prepared to travel down the long remote dirt tracks and tackle relatively long approaches will be rewarded with some of Arkansas’ finest rock and a selection of excellent crags. The area includes Stack Rock, which are a series of tall free standing towers.
Rock Climbing at Arkansas logistics
The best time to climb in Arkansas is from mid-September through to mid-May, with the spring and autumn times being especially good. When the sun is shining and the air is still, then during the winter can provide many magical climbing days.
Many climbers base themselves at Horseshoe Canyon Ranch with its convenient camping and cabin options. Many of the other crags are also only about an hour’s drive from here making it a good base to explore some of the other climbing areas in Arkansas.