Rock Climbing on the island of Crete

Sport climbing on the Greek island of Crete is relatively new (and therefore relatively undeveloped) when compared to the rest of Europe. The main rock climbing areas in Crete are shown on the map below, with Kapetaniana and Agiofarango in the south of the island being the largest and most developed.

Map of the main rock climbing areas in Crete

Map of the main rock climbing areas in Crete
Main rock climbing areas in Crete
NoCrag NameGrade RangeTotal No of RoutesSingle or multi-pitchWhich Guidebook
1Voulismeno Aloni4c to 8c44SingleNone
2Skoteino5b to 8b+15SingleCrete North to South
3Malia6a to 8a12SingleCrete North to South
4Treis Ekklisies4c to 7c+29SingleCrete North to South
5Agios Ioannis4c to 6c+28BothCrete North to South
6Kapetanania3b to 8a136BothKapetanania
7Agiofarango4c to 8a105BothCrete North to South
8Plakias4c to 8a42BothCrete North to South
9Marmara5c to 6b+5SingleNone
10Mount GigilosVI to VIII+ 27Multi-pitchNone
11Theriso5b to 8a44BothNone
12Monte Vardia5a to 7a+58SingleNone
13Kalathas5b to 7a+46SingleNone
14Stavros5b to 6b+8Multi-pitchNone
15Tersanas Cave6c+ to 8b20SingleNone

This information has been extracted from the various rock climbing guidebooks that cover Crete. These are; Crete from North to South Guidebook; Kapetaniana Guidebook; and the Greece Sport Climbing Guidebook.  All of these guidebooks can be bought from our shop. The table shows which guidebook covers which crag.


Kapetaniana is the best rock climbing area in Crete. The rock climbing is based around the isolated village of Kapetaniana, and therefore offers remote and peaceful rock climbing. However it is only 75Km from the capital Iraklio (Heraklion), with its airport, and therefore is very accessible. There are 6 areas offering single pitch sports routes from 15 to 40m long, plus a small amount of traditional climbing on Mount Kofinas. It total at Kapetaniana there are over 130 routes across a wide range of grades on solid white limestone rock.

Agiofarango is situated within a picturesque gorge that runs down to the sea and a pretty beach and offers a great sports climbing venue. The climbing is situated on both sides of the gorge, which means that you can find sun or shade no matter what the season or time of the day. The routes are generally long and cover all styles from slabs, overhangs, steep walls, chimneys and cracks, across a wide range of grades.


Around Chania the main sport climbing areas are at Kalathas, Monte Vardia, Stavros, and Theriso. The vast majority of these routes are single pitch, though there are some multi-pitch routes around 100m long. 


The best rock climbing area in Crete for long big wall routes is at Mount Gigilos, which is close to the famous Samaria Gorge National Park. The routes here range from 600m to 1,500m long, and are generally trad routes (that require the placing of nuts and cams) that demand a mountaineering approach.


Marmara is situated at the end of the Aradena gorge near Loutro. Here the climbing is straight off the beach plus there are great possibilities for opening new long sports routes. Around Sfakion there are also some deep water soloing (DWS) opportunities. 


Tersanas Cave is situated next to the sea and is full of large stalactites. There are enormous possibilities for new routes here. However it is definitely a place for the harder climber with the routes ranging from 6c+ to 8b.


The Crete North to South guidebook describes the rock climbing found at Agiofarango, Plakias, Agios Ioannis, Treis Ekklisies, Skoteino and Malia.