Climb Europe - helping to organise your rock climbing holiday in the New River Gorge, West Virginia
The New River Gorge in West Virginia is one of America’s best and largest rock climbing areas, and is within a day’s drive of 60% of the country’s population. This sandstone gorge provides a mixture of traditional and sport routes, with the climbing based around the town of Fayetteville. The solid heavy featured sandstone provides world-class face climbing, from thin edges to pumpy overhangs, and fine cracks of all shapes and sizes that provide many excellent single pitch routes.
Around Fayetteville there are several crags (as shown on the map opposite) that provide over 1,900 routes across a wide range of grades. The largest of these crags is called Endless Wall, which stretches for nearly 4 miles and is the definitive New River Gorge crag. This wall of immaculate sandstone has hundreds of cracks, corners, technical faces, arêtes, overhangs and slabs.
Not as well-known as the New River Gorge climbing, but equally as impressive, are the areas around the Meadow River and Summersville Lake.
The rock climbing at Meadow River Gorge is located about 13 miles north of Fayetteville. Compared to the New River Gorge, the climbing here is generally a bit steeper and more featured. This area has some of the most impressive features in the region, with many pockets, huecos, perfect edges and jugs. Again there is a good mixture of traditional and sport routes that are mainly single pitch. Further north of here is Summersville Lake, which has some of the best sport routes in the area.
The best time of year to climb at the New River Gorge is during the autumn with perfect conditions found in October when it is usually fairly dry with cooler conditions. The spring is also a great time with ideal temperatures but tends to be a little wetter. It is possible to climb throughout the year at the New River Gorge as shade can be found in the summer and the sun in the winter.our shop.
New River Gorge volume 1 rock climbing guidebook.
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