The Pyrenees Mountains form a natural border between Spain and France and in the foothills of these mountains there are many excellent sports climbing, rock climbing and bouldering areas. Generally the rock here is usually very good and well bolted.
The majority of the crags offer single pitch sports routes though there many impressive crags that provides multi-pitch climbing, such as Terradets (up to 500m high), Riglos (up to 300m high) and Cavallers (up to 120m high). It should be noted that while some of these multi-pitch routes are bolted, some are only semi-equipped, so you will need some traditional gear such as nuts and cams. All of the crags are limestone with the exception of Riglos crag, which is conglomerate rock, Cavallers crag, which is granite, and Targasonne crag, which offers granite bouldering.
Many of the single pitch crags can be described as "steep endurance climbing areas" typified by Rodellar, where it is necessary to be comfortably climbing F6c+ and above to get the best out of the crag. However not all of the crags are steep and there are enough crags that have a good range of grades, such as Cavallers and Montgrony, to enjoy many weeks of climbing!
The granite bouldering at Targasonne just across the border in France is at an altitude of over 1,600m. These granite boulders offer a good range of problems across all grades and are generally between 3 and 4m tall.
|Rock Climbing Areas in the Pyrenees|
|No||Crag||Type of climbing||No of routes||Grade Range||Popular Grades|
|1||Sadernes||Sports||153||4 to 8c+||6b to 7b|
|2||Montgrony||Sports||207||3 to 8c||6b to 8a|
|3||Targasonne||Bouldering||421||Fb 3b to 8b||Fb 4a to 6c|
|4||Sinsat||Sports||127||3c to 8a||5c to 6c|
|5||Superpene/Pene Haute||Sports||213||3c to 8c||5c to 8a|
|6||Cavallers||Sports||220||4- to 8a||5c to 7b|
|7||Rodellar||Sports||315||5 to 8c+||7a to 8a|
|8||Alquezar||Sports||83||6a to 8c+||7a to 8a|
|9||San Llorenc de Montgal||Sports||72||5c to 8b+||7c to 8a|
|10||Tartareu||Sports||190||5c to 8b||5c to 6c|
|11||Santa Linya||Sports||69||5+ to 9a+||7c to 8c|
|12||Camarasa||Sports||114||4 to 8b||5c to 6c|
|13||Terradets/Bruixes||Sports||85||6b+ to 9a+||7c to 8a|
The above information has been extracted from a new guidebook to this area called " Pyrenees Rock" that offers a selected number of climbs at the crags shown on the map above. The table above indicates the number of routes in the guidebook and which are the common grades at each of these crags (i.e. the majority of the routes are in this grade range). It should be noted that the multi-pitch climbs at Terradets are not included in the guidebook or any routes at Riglos and Berga. Buy this guidebook from our shop.
"Escalada en Rodellar" is the definitive guidebook that covers the rock climbing and sports climbing in Rodellar. Situated at the end of Mascun valley, 10 minutes walk from the tiny village of Rodellar, is a spectacular gorge. This gorge provides a fantastic sports climbing area with its overhanging caves, arches, pinnacles and slabs. Many of the routes are steep and are graded at F6c and above. Buy this guidebook from our shop.
"Lleida Climbs" describes a selected number of sport climbs in the province of Lleida to the west of Barcelona and stretching into the Pyrenees. In total 21 separate rock climbing areas are documented detailing nearly 1,900 routes across a wide range of grades. The style of climbing covered is huge ranging from; the well-known sandstone bouldering at El Cogul; single and multi-pitch sport routes up to 250m long on excellent limestone rock at places such as Terradets, Santa Linya, Tartareu, and Vilanova de Mela; to the granite slabs and steep faces at Cavallers. Buy this guidebook from our shop.
If you choose your crag and/or sector appropriately it is possible to rock climb in the Pyrenees throughout the year. However the best time of the year is definitely either spring or autumn.