Rock Climbing in Ogliastra

Ogliastra is perhaps unique in Sardinia in offering all types of climbing from, single pitch sport routes, multi-pitch sport routes up to 500m long, deep water soloing (DWS) and bouldering. Some of the crags are in the mountains at an altitude of over 1,000m, which mean you can always find cool, shady crags in the summer, as well as sunny low-level crags in the winter! Each of these areas has seen rapid developments over the last couple of years with the potential for much more.

List of the rock climbing areas in the Ogliastra region of Sardinia
No	Crag	Type of Climbing
1	Passaggia per Chitur	Single Pitch
2	Il Castella	Single and Multi-pitch
3	Palazza d'inverra	Single Pitch
4	Isala del Tesora	Single Pitch
5	Terra dei Venti	Single Pitch
6	Cascata Lecarci	Single and Multi-pitch
7	Canyon	Single Pitch
8	Gola di San Giargia	Single Pitch
9	Ussassai	Single Pitch
10	Selene	Bouldering
11	Mante Tanneri	Single Pitch
12	Praidas	Single Pitch
13	Lotzorai	Bouldering
14	Parta di S. Maria	Single Pitch
15	Mante Scaine	Single Pitch
16	Braccia di Ferra	Single Pitch
17	Villaggia Gallica	Single Pitch
18	Creuza de Ma	Single Pitch
19	Campa dei Miracali	Single Pitch
20	The Lemon House	Single Pitch
21	Punta Argennas	Multi-pitch
22	Punta Giradili	Multi-pitch
23	Monte Ginnircu	Single and Multi-pitch
24	Cala Goloritze	Single and Multi-pitch
25	Serra Oseli	Multi-pitch
26	Punta Plumare	Multi-pitch

Map of the rock climbing areas in Ogliastra, including Baunei and Jerzu

The Pietra di Luna rock climbing guidebook details all of the single pitch sport routes in the Ogliastra region of Sardinia. Buy this guidebook from our shop.

Single-pitch sport climbing in Ogliastra.

The best sport climbing areas in Ogliastra are found on the cliffs around the villages of Ulassai and Jerzu, where it is possible to climb throughout the year on superb limestone rock. All the routes here are single pitch with the style of climbing ranging from slabs to steep routes on vertical or overhanging rock. Many of the routes are technical and sustained, across a wide range of grades between F4a and F9a. There are a reasonable number of F5's and easy F6's, as well as harder routes, all on fantastic rough limestone. Ulassai and Jerzu are superb for the mid-grade climber with 456 routes in the F6’s and 490 routes in the F7’s.

At an altitude of 800m, the best time of the year to climb at Ulassai and Jerzu is from is from March until December. The routes face all directions so there are lots of shaded walls for hot days (even in July) and sunny walls for the colder days. Reflecting the huge amount of climbing around Ulassai and Jerzu there is a separate climbing guidebook for the area, called Ulassai and Jerzu Rock Climbing Guidebook that is available to buy from our shop.

The climbing at Baunei is a mixture of single pitch and multi-pitch climbing (see below). Again the climbing is on rough limestone rock with a wide range of grades to choose from. Baunei is at sea level and therefore it is an ideal place to climb in the cooler months

The Pietra di Luna rock climbing guidebook covers all the sport routes in Ogliastra region including Ulassai, Jerzu and Baunei, and is available to buy from our shop.

Multi-pitch bolted climbing in Ogliastra

The Baunei region is the best area for multi-pitch routes in Ogliastra. Here you will find the famous Aguglia pinnacle at Cala Goloritze offers some of the easiest multi-pitch routes in the area, going from F6c max/F5c obligatory. Pay close attention to the "obligatory" grade in the guidebook, which is the grade you have to be able to climb even when the bolt is below you. At Punta Giradili, routes such as Mediterraneo, 240m long at max F7a+/F6b obligatory and Wolfgang Güllich, 400m long at max 7a/6b obligatory have long been modern classics, though the bolts are well spaced! There are hard (grade F7 obligatory) routes on Giradili as well as Monte Ginnircu just next door, where you abseil into the multi-pitch routes. Thankfully, if you're not cruising F7a, there are multi-pitch routes for you at Serra Oseli as well as at the Aguglia. The comprehensive guidebook that covers the multi-pitch routes in Ogliastra is called “Sardinia – Trad and Multi-Pitch Climbing Guidebook”, which is available to buy from our shop.

Bouldering in Ogliastra

Near Lanusei at an altitude of 1,000m are the woods of Selene with their granite boulders, which offer good bouldering in the lower grades during the summer. Near Lotzorai, on the coast, there is also some good granite bouldering. There are also some limestone boulders at Serra Oseli.

Deep Water Soloing (DWS) in Ogliastra

With summer water temperatures up to 24°C, Sardinia is ideal for DWS. The best DWS is found at the Ogliastra end of the Gulf of Orosei, rather than the Cala Gonone end.

The famous Aguglia pinnacle at Cala Goloritze offers some of the easiest multi-pitch routes in the area up to 165m long.

Click on the above images to view a larger photograph. These photographs illustrate the fantastic rock climbing to be found in the Ogliastra region of central eastern Sardinia.

The Ogliastra region of Sardinia is also a great place to go mountain biking and walking. Discover more about mountain biking in Sardinia, with many great routes along cart and mule tracks left by shepherds and charcoal burners.

Discover more about walking in Sardinia including the famous Selvaggio Blu Trek that follows the wild coastline of Ogliastra.

The Pietra di Luna rock climbing guidebook details all of the single pitch sport routes in the Ogliastra region of Sardinia.

The Trad and Multi-Pitch Rock Climbing Guidebook for Sardinia covers Ogliastra.

Buy these rock climbing guidebooks from our shop.

Accommodation for rock climbers in Ogliastra.

Rock Climbing in Ogliastra

List of the rock climbing areas in the Ogliastra region of Sardinia

Map of the rock climbing areas in Ogliastra, including Baunei and Jerzu

Single-pitch sport climbing in Ogliastra.

Multi-pitch bolted climbing in Ogliastra

Bouldering in Ogliastra

Deep Water Soloing (DWS) in Ogliastra

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