The Lofoten Islands are located off the northwest coast of Norway, around 200km north of the Arctic Circle, and are made up of five large and five small islands. On these islands, rising from the sea, are a range of granite peaks that rise over 1,000m high and provide many excellent multi-pitch traditional routes, up to 500m long. These granite mountains offer some of the most scenic and spectacular rock climbing in Norway.
The climbing is centred on the village of Henningsvaer, complete with its own climbing café. Here and around the neighbouring village of Kelle are some of the most popular and well developed crags at Lofoten. There is a great range of short and long multi-pitch routes, including some fine sea cliff climbing. Also many climbers are inspired to climb the big wall routes at places such as the Preston and Pillaren walls.
The best guidebook for the area is simply called “Lofoten Rock” published by Rockfax in May 2017. The guidebook covers a wide range of grades from Norwegian 4 to 9 (English Severe to E7 or French 3 to 8a). There is a good range of traditional multi-pitch routes, both short and long, plus some single pitch sport routes. The “Bouldering in Lofoten guidebook” covers more than 700 problems in 24 separate bouldering areas across Lofoten. Buy this guidebook from our shop.
Lofoten is included in the multi-pitch rock climbing in Europe guidebook. Though this book doesn’t include any routes it describes the climbing at Lofoten in great detail, along with many great photographs. Further information is then given about practical information about how to get there, where to stay, when to go, rock quality and routes, and the type of gear required for climbing at Lofoten. Buy this multi-pitch rock climbing in Europe guidebook from our shop.
The best time to climb at Lofoten is during the summer months of June, July and August. During this time the weather usually is stable, coupled with the added advantage of having sunlight 24 hours per day, you can start climbing whenever you want.Getting to Lofoten is a major undertaking in itself, as it is a long way from the rest of Europe. Ideally it makes sense to go for at least 2 weeks and longer if possible. The routes to the island are from Bodo, where you can either fly onto Svolvaer, or hire a car and catch the ferry to Svolvaer. An internal flight is required to get to Bodo, and these are available from Oslo, Bergen or Trondheim airports. The Lofoten Rock guidebook also gives extensive information on the various options of travelling to Lofoten.