The rock climbing and sport climbing in south western Mexico is found around the large cities of Pachuca, Puebla, Xalapa, and Oaxaca. Here there is a high concentration of sport crags, plus a number of trad climbing and bouldering areas.
Main rock climbing areas in South Western Mexico
|No||Crag||No. of routes||Typical Grade Range||Rock Type||Style of Climbing|
|1||El Arenal||61||5.8 to 5.14b||Volcanic tuff||Sport and bouldering|
|2||Parque Nacional El Chico||100+||5.4 to 5.12||Conglomerado||Sport, Trad, and bouldering|
|3||San Juan Tizahuapan||50||5.8 to 5.13||Limestone||Sport and Trad|
|4||Cerro Brujo||41||5.9 to 5.13||Limestone||Sport|
|5||Los Pericos||85||5.8 to 5.13d||Rhyolite||Sport and Trad|
|6||Pena Colorada||11||5.11b to 5.13c||Limestone||Sport|
|7||San Sebastian Tutla and La Meca||82||5.8 to 5.14||Rhyolite||Sport, Trad, and bouldering|
|8||Yagul||12||5.9 to 5.13b||Rhyolite||Sport and bouldering|
|9||Paredes De Copoya||60||5.8 to 5.13||Limestone||Sport, Trad, and bouldering|
|10||El Gimnasio - Canon Del Sumidero||10||5.8 to 5.11||Limestone||Sport|
The information shown on the above map and table opposite has been extracted from the Mexican rock climbing guidebook for Central and Southern Mexico.
Near to the city of Pachuca is Mineral del Chico National Park that hosts many conglomerate domes or monoliths. Here there is a mixture of trad and new sport routes. Also in this magnificent natural environment there are many boulders of all shapes and sizes. There are around 50 registered problems up to V10 across all grades but with a huge potential for new ones. Close by is El Arenal, a sport climbing crag that has some extremely overhanging routes.
Los Pericos is a large sport crag near the city of Puebla. The routes here are generally good quality, on Rhyolite rock. The style of the climbing ranges from vertical to overhanging, with grades from 5.9 to 5.13d.
Close to the city of Oaxaca there are a number of crags. The crag of Pena Colorada is a great wall 150m long, providing many magnificent limestone multi-pitch routes. The quality of these red/grey limestone routes is exceptional and the setting is fantastic. San Sebastian Tutla is the closest sport crag to the city of Oaxaca. This large and highly developed rhyolite wall has great face climbing, with a wide range of grades. La Meca is a uniquely wave shaped wall where most of the routes are at the higher end of the grade range.
40km southeast of Xalapa is the town of Jalcomulco. Here is the sport climbing crag of Cerro Brujo, which is a large limestone wall located in a gorgeous jungle setting. Close by is one of the largest rivers in Mexico, called the Pescados River, which is popular for rafting.
Generally the best time to climb in south western Mexico is from November through to April. During this time there are very low levels of rain and the coolest temperatures.