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Rock climbing in South Eastern Mexico

The rock climbing and sport climbing found in south eastern Mexico is found around the large cities of Mexico City, Guadalajara and Guanajuato.  Here there is a high concentration of sport crags, plus a number of trad climbing and bouldering areas.

Main rock climbing areas in South Eastern Mexico

No Crag No. of routes Typical Grade Range Rock Type Style of Climbing
1 Tapias Viejas 100+ 5.9 to 5.14 Sandstone Sport and Trad
2 Ixcatan 100+ 5.9 to 5.14 Basalt and Rhyolite Sport and bouldering
3 El Cuajo 60+ 5.10 to 5.13 Basalt and Rhyolite Sport, Trad, and bouldering
4 El Diente 150+ 5.13d to 5.13d Granite Sport, Trad, and bouldering
5 La Bufa and Calderones 70 5.8 to 5.13b Rhyolite Sport
6 Pena De Bernal 60 5.7 to 5.12+ Granite Sport and bouldering
7 Aculco 140 5.8 to 5.13 Basalt Trad and bouldering
8 Jilotepec 120 5.8 to 5.14c Volcanic tuff Sport
9 Copilco 64 5.8 to 5.13a Volcanic Sport, Trad, and bouldering
10 Las Manzanas 100+ 5.7 to 5.13d Basalt Sport, Trad, and bouldering
11 Calixtlahuaca 114 5.8 to 5.12c Andesite Sport and Trad
12 El Oasis 50 5.9 to 5.14a Volcanic Sport, Trad, and bouldering
13 Chontacoatlan and Dos Bocas 100 5.10 to 5.14 Limestone Sport

Map of the main rock climbing areas in South Eastern Mexico

Map of the main rock climbing areas in South Eastern Mexico

The information shown on the above map and table opposite has been extracted from the Mexican rock climbing guidebook for Central and Southern Mexico.

Rock climbing around Mexico City

Amazingly it is possible to rock climb just outside the heart of Mexico City at Los Dinamos.  This fascinating climbing area is in such a fabulous, wild and beautiful natural setting on good quality volcanic rock. The climbing area is divided into several sectors combining excellent trad climbing (La Coconetla) to excellent bolted sport routes, with routes up to three pitches long.

Within an hour’s drive of Mexico City are the excellent crags of Jilotepec, Aculco and Las Manzanas.  Jilotepec is a large sport climbing crag and was a location for 2010 Petzl Rocktrip.  It has a large number of sectors on good conglomerate and has many fabulous routes.  Aculco is one of best trad climbing areas in southern Mexico. It is a canyon with walls filled with cracked basalt prisms of all sizes.  It has been described as a mini "Mexican Indian Creek", and is a great place to visit for jamming lovers. It also has some excellent bouldering.  Las Manzanas is an excellent sport crag with high quality rhyolite, featuring many pockets, crimps and outstanding friction.

Further south of Mexico City in the state of Guerrero is one of Mexico’s top sport climbing destinations, called Chontacoatlan.  Here there is stunning large cave full of giant and spectacular stalactites and tufas.  The vast majority of the routes are of high quality, long and demand lots of endurance.

Rock climbing around Guadalajara

In the state of Jalisco is the city of Guadalajara, which has some excellent rock climbing areas.  Ixcatan provides the best sport climbing in this area, with its solid reddish sandstone rock, providing many technical face routes. There are several highly developed sectors with enough climbing for many days.  El Cuajo is a beautiful canyon with sport routes up to three pitches long.  Access to these routes is via abseil (rappelling), which adds to the adventure.  El Diente is a beautiful area with a huge concentration of granite boulders of all sizes. It has plenty of small sectors with mostly sport climbing routes, a few trad routes and excellent boulder problems all around. In fact it is one of the best bouldering areas in Mexico.

Rock climbing around Guanajuato

La Bufa and Calderones is an interesting sport climbing area attached to the beautiful colonial city of Guanajuato. The rock is a reddish/grey rhyolite and has numerous sectors on the rock band above the city.

Average peak temperatures for Mexico CityLogistics for climbing in south eastern Mexico

Generally the best time to climb in south eastern Mexico is from November through to April.  During this time there are very low levels of rain and the coolest temperatures.