Valtellina is also an area of great natural beauty that stretches from Chiavenna past the northern tip of Lake Como through to Masino, Sondrio and onto Bormio. As shown on the map opposite there is plenty of rock climbing throughout this region from bouldering at Mello, low level sport climbing to long multi-pitch mountain climbing on big walls. There is also a great variety of rock to climb on from granite, gneiss, schist, and limestone, to marble and conglomerate.
(1) The area around S. Martino at the head of Val Masino offers a wealth of long multi-pitch mountain climbing on big granite walls. Here many valleys branch off providing numerous rock climbing opportunities, which are a combination of both sport and trad routes, and are well served by alpine huts. The guidebook which covers this area is called Solo Granito Volume 1, which can be bought from our shop.
(2) Val di Mello provides some of the best climbing in the Alps. This valley with its crystal clean streams and wide meadows is surrounded by huge granite walls. These walls feature endless cracks, corners and grooves on some of the best quality granite in Europe, solid, featured and clean. The climbing ranges from single pitch sport routes to long multi-pitch mountain climbing up to 800m long, with everything in between and across all grades. It’s understandable why Mello is often referred to as “Little Yosemite”. The guidebook covering these multi-pitch routes is simply called “Val di Mello rock climbing guidebook”, and can be bought from our shop.
Mello is also a world class bouldering venue. In the wide meadows thousands of granite boulders litter the valley floor of all shapes and sizes. There are a good range of problems to suit all abilities from easy slabs through to powerful roofs with generally very good landings. Find out more…
(3) There are also many lower level rock climbing areas here, such as those around Chiavenna, Chiesa Valmalenco, Sondalo, and Bormio. In these areas the rock is more varied with gneiss, schist, limestone, marble and conglomerate being found in addition to granite. Generally the climbing here is within the valley floor or at low altitude. The vast majority of the routes are bolted though some of the longer multi-pitch routes (300+m long) do require some trad gear. The guidebook that covers this climbing is called “Valtellina, Valchiavenna and Engadina rock climbing guidebook”, which can be bought from our shop.
Val Bregaglia and Val Chiavenna also host a number of long multi-pitch mountaineering rock routes. These routes are very much Alpine style with the emphasis on trad routes rather than sport routes. These long Alpine routes are covered in the Solo Granite Volume 2 guidebook that can be bought from our shop.
The best time to climb in all of these areas is from May to September when the routes will be free from snow. There are also many bouldering areas within the Valtellina area, find out more…