Climb Europe

Rock climbing at Finale Ligure

The rock climbing at Finale Ligure offers fantastic, diverse sports climbing of great quality and character, with around 3,000 routes to choose from on white limestone rock.  The rock climbing is situated in a succession of valleys in the hills behind Finale Ligure, and covers an area of 10 square kilometres.  This huge deep green landscape can be harsh, wild, rough, and splendid and therefore not your "standard" sport climbing area but is a real adventure.

Map of the rock climbing areas around Finale Ligure

Map of the rock climbing areas around Finale Ligure
The above information has been extracted from the current rock climbing guidebook for Finale Ligure, called Finale 8.0. This excellent guidebook can be bought from our shop.

Crags of Finale Ligure

No Crag Total No of Routes Number of routes in grade range Single or Multi-pitch
F3 F4 F5 F6 F7 F8
1 Caprazoppa 65 2 7 14 37 5 0 Single
2 Rocce dell'Orera 33 4 5 16 8 0 0 Single
3 Paretina di Finalborgo 10 0 0 1 9 0 0 Single
4 Rocca di Perti 379 1 5 78 215 67 13 Both
5 Placca delle Case Valle 17 0 0 3 13 1 0 Single
6 La Parete Dimenticata 59 0 0 10 35 11 3 Single
7 Monte Sordo 104 0 2 15 68 17 2 Both
8 Pian Marino 55 2 4 18 31 0 0 Single
9 Bric Scimarco 78 0 1 7 56 14 0 Both
10 San Antonino 33 0 0 6 19 8 0 Single
11 Tre Frati 13 0 0 4 9 0 0 Single
12 Bric Grigio 39 0 0 5 17 14 3 Single
13 Kattedrale 16 0 0 0 7 9 0 Single
14 Sakrestia 13 0 0 0 12 1 0 Single
15 Konvento 21 0 0 3 15 3 0 Both
16 Bric del Frate 74 0 0 11 51 12 0 Both
17 Bric Pianarella 69 See below Both
18 Bric Spaventaggi 126 0 2 10 84 29 1 Both
19 Monte Cucco 286 1 4 30 156 75 20 Both
20 Rian Cornei 542 0 4 77 404 56 1 Both
21 Val di Nava 74 0 2 9 42 16 5 Both

An unknown climber on Peace, F7a+ at Rocca di Corno cragThe rock at Finale Ligure is a marine limestone and the variety of rock climbing is huge, from slabs, smooth and pocketed vertical walls, to steep imposing overhangs. The style of climbing is technical, usually with the crux near the end of the route. The routes are mainly single pitch, though there are some bolted routes up to 3 and 4 pitches long. However the exception is the Bric Pianarella crag, the so called “big wall”, where the routes are up to 250m long.  The climbing at Finale consists of 192 different sectors/crags and around 3,000 routes with grades range from F3a to F8c+. However most of the crags have routes with grades between F6a and F7a.

Further along the coast is Capo Noli, which offers climbing some great sea cliff rock climbing that has a totally difference character to that of Finale. This area is also a very popular place for deep water soloing.

The area is very accessible being only a 30 minute drive from Genova airport, along with plenty of accommodation that you would normally find in a popular tourist area.

The different climbing areas are split into many different sectors and crags that face all directions. Hence it is possible to climb throughout the year, though the best time is spring and autumn. See our Finale climbing logistics page for more information.

The photograph opposite shows an unknown climber on Peace, F7a+ at Rocca di Corno crag, one of the more popular crags in Finale Ligure.

Rock climbing guidebooks for Finale Ligure

There are currently 2 guidebooks that cover the rock climbing at Finale Ligure, both of which were published in late 2011.  They are called “Finale Climbing” and “Finale 8.0”, and are very comprehensive.  Both of these guidebooks for Finale Ligure can be bought from our shop.

Muzzerone rock climbing guidebookOutside of Finale Ligure there are also many other excellent rock climbing areas.

OltreFinale - Towards the French border there are a series of valleys running into the hills behind the sea. Over the years these have become known as the OltreFinale crags, which as the name suggest are the alternative crags to Finale Ligure. In total there are 5 valleys, 80 climbing sectors and hundreds of routes across a wide range of grades on solid limestone rock. The climbing is mainly single pitch sport routes though there are some bolted multi-pitch routes up to 170m long and many excellent boulder problems.

Muzzerone - Situated between Sestri Levante & La Spezia this area offers a wide choice of fantastic sea cliff rock climbing. The routes range from single pitch routes on slabs to steep and overhanging multi-pitch routes across a wide range of grades. Here the rock climbing is on very good quality limestone rock that has recently been re-bolted.

Andonno - Close to French border is the village of Andonno, which is another great rock climbing area. There are over 200 routes here, mainly single pitch with some multi pitch routes up to 90m long on good quality limestone. Just outside the village there is also a bouldering area.


Finale Climbing guidebook covers the rock climbing and sport climbing at Finale Ligure

Finale Climbing guidebook covers the rock climbing and sport climbing at Finale Ligure

Buy this guidebook from our shop.