Leonidio was built in a valley on the east coast of the Peloponnese peninsula, and it is surrounded by high quality limestone crags that sit on the hillsides around the town. Leonidio has been described as is the best place to go sport climbing on mainland Greece, and the map opposite shows the location of these crags that are dotted around the town.
The crags that surround Leonidio are a mixture of red and grey limestone rock that is highly featured, offering great routes across a wide range of grades. Currently over 1,400 sport routes have been developed at Leonidio providing many different styles of enjoyable climbing. These include tufa columns, steep crimpy walls, and caves with stalactites, to grey slabs requiring good balance. The vast majority of the sport routes at Leonidio are single pitch that can be up to 40m long. There are also 37 multi-pitch routes up to 245m long, with many of them around 150m to 220m long.
The only definitive guidebook available for Leonidio has been produced by the local climbers, and is call the Leonidio and Kyparissi Climbing Guidebook that can be bought from our shop. It described over 1,600 bolted routes across more than 60 sectors, and is in English text throughout. The number of routes breaks down to over 1,400 at Leonidio and over 200 at Kyparissi. These local climbers have formed a not for profit cooperative call Panjika, where all the profits from the guidebook are put back into the local community and fund the expansion of more bolted routes. Kyparissi is situated to the south of Leonidio.
Number of routes at each grade range to be found at Leonidio and Kyparissi
|Up to 4c||5a to 5c+||6a to 6b+||6c to 7a+||7b to 7c+||8a to 8a+||8b to 9a+||Project|
It is recommended to take an 80m rope, since some of the routes are up to 40m high and require as many as 20 quickdraws. However it is possible to get away with a 70m rope and still climb the majority of the routes. A helmet is also highly recommended.
Getting to Leonidio is relatively easy, fly direct to Athens and then it is roughly a 4 hour drive to Leonidio in a rented car. No ferries or extra flights are involved.
The best time to climb at Leonidio is from the autumn through to spring (October to April), with the climate being typically Mediterranean. Many of the crags face south providing ideal winter sun-traps, but shade can also be found. The winters are mild with many days of sunshine, and brief periods of rain. Spring and autumn are warm with many days of sunshine, and occasional rain. Summers are hot and dry with almost no rain.