Climb Europe - helping to organise your rock climbing holiday in Germany
The map opposite shows the best rock climbing areas in Germany, with Frankenjura being the jewel of Germany’s rock climbing destinations.
Germany’s largest and best rock climbing area is at Frankenjura, which is located between the cities of Nuremberg, Bamberg, and Bayreuth in northern Bavaria. In this large area, there are approximately 1,000 crags spread out in a beautiful forest terrain. The majority of the routes at Frankenjura are short powerful single pitch sport routes that are either vertical or overhanging. The character and style of climbing is on excellent quality white and grey limestone rock that is full of pockets, bents and holes. Frankenjura boasts in excess of 10,000 routes meaning there is something from everyone across the full grade range.
There are so many routes that the definitive rock climbing guidebook for Frankenjura is split into 2 books, both of which can be bought from our shop.
The best time to climb at Frankenjura is late spring and autumn, but as many of the crags either face north or are shaded in woods, then summer is also an excellent time to climb.
The Allgäu region is one of the Germany’s popular tourist destinations, with lush green valleys, and snow-capped Alpine peaks reflecting in the clear blue waters of cold mountain lakes. Allgäu is located in southern Germany, adjacent to the Austrian border, which extends across the south-western tip of Bavaria and into the neighbouring state of Baden-Württemberg. This large area boasts 72 different crags, centred mainly around the towns of Füssen (on the German/Austria border), Kempten, Sonthofen and Oberstdorf. The character and style of the rock climbing is predominantly on limestone rock, along with some conglomerate and sandstone. The vast majority of the routes are single pitch sport routes that are well bolted. The definitive guidebook for this area is called Allgäu Rock and is available to buy from our shop.
In the Allgäu area there is also plenty of bouldering to be found, particularly between the towns of Kempten and Sonthofen, and around Füssen. The character and style of the bouldering is very varied from extreme overhanging conglomerate walls with problems up to Font 8b+, circuits like in Fontainebleau but on rough limestone rock, to athletic sandstone problems. All of these bouldering problems are covered in the definitive guidebook called Allgäu Block, which can be bought from our shop.
Blautal (Blau Valley) is located south of Stuttgart, close to the city of Ulm. The character and style of the rock climbing is all about sport routes on limestone rock, of which the vast majority are single pitch. There are over 30 crags dotted along the river Blau, which provide almost 650 routes across a good range of grades. The best time to climb at Blautal is from March through to November. The definitive guidebook for the area is called Blautal Rock, which is available to buy from our shop.
The Harz region in northern Germany is a great bouldering area located to the southeast of Hanover. The actual bouldering is situated close to the town of Goslar, and is a mixture of granite and sandstone rock. The main bouldering area is in the Oker Valley (Okertal) that has many coarsely grained granite blocks of various sizes. The style of the bouldering is on vertical rock with crimps, large crystals, slopers, cracks and the occasional finger pocket. Other areas include Bad Harzburg (granite), Ottofelsen (granite), Langenstein (sandstone), Westerhausen (sandstone), and Bodenstein (sandstone). The definitive bouldering guidebook for the area is called Harz Block, and is available to buy from our shop.
Situated halfway between Cologne and Frankfurt is the old quarry area of Mayen. These disused basalt quarries are now home to sport climbing, traditional climbing and bouldering spread over 3 areas near the town of Ettringen. The character and style of the rock climbing is strenuous cracks and groves along with intricately technical arêtes and slabs. In total there are around 1,400 routes, which are all single pitch up to 30m high.
Franken 2 is the definitive guidebook covering the rock climbing in southern Frankenjura.
Allgäu Block is the definitive guidebook covering the bouldering in the Allgäu region of Southern Germany
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