Czech climbing has a reputation for scary routes on sandstone rock with only knotted slings for protection. Whilst this is true for some areas and/or selected routes there are plenty of places to go going in the Czech Republic where there are bolts or in-situ rings for protection. The map shows some of the best places to go climbing in the Czech Republic.
The Labske Udoli region is located in the northern part of the Czech Republic that borders Germany near the city of Dresden. The climbing is on sandstone cliffs and towers that are located either side of the River Elbe, close to the Czech town of Děčín. The sandstone is particularly hard and solid here, which allows for striking lines with routes up to 80m high.
Labske Udoli has a mixture of Trad and sport routes. The in-situ gear for the sport routes ranges from bolts to rings though the first bolt can sometimes be quite high. This first bolt can usually be reached with a clip stick or easy climbing. The space between bolts can then range from good (standard sport climbing) to demanding with airy “runouts”. The trad routes generally utilises slings for threads or knotted slings to insert into cracks (the use of nuts and cams is banned so as not to damage the rock) with the occasional ring. The climbing here is intended to be adventurous, where long falls are a possibility.
As the climbing is located on either side of the river it is always possible to find the sun or shade depending upon the time of year. Getting to Labske Udoli is easy by flying into Dresden (Germany) or Prague (Czech Republic). A train runs between these two cities runs directly through the area, so there is no need for a car, as almost everything is within walking distance. The climbing guide Labske Udoli describes over 2,200 routes across a wide range of grades and is available to buy from our shop. The author Gerald Krug has written an article describing the climbing at Labske Udoli in more detail, find out more…
Petrohrad is the best bouldering area in the Czech Republic, and is located 80km to the west of Prague. The bouldering is on exceptional quality grey granite that is rough, often rounded, which offers excellent friction. There is a huge variety of climbing styles with many slabs and overhangs. There are around 3,000+ problems, across the whole grade range from easy to cutting edge Fb8b+. The walk-ins are short, and generally the boulders are situated in magical forests but some are also to be found in open fields surrounded by a wild, hilly landscape.
Prachov Rocks (Prachovske Skaly) is a part of the Bohemian Paradise Nature Park, and is a Protected Landscape Area. Prachov Rocks is a series of sandstone towers with a variety of climbing styles ranging from slabs with good friction, to cracks of all sizes, and chimneys. Protection is via spaced fixed rings along with slings for threads or knotted slings to insert into cracks. Like other sandstone areas in the Czech Republic the use of all nuts and cams are banned along with chalk. A 60m rope will be sufficient for the vast majority of the routes. At the top of each tower there are rings to abseil from along with a little metal summit container containing an informative booklet and summit log.
The climbing at Adršpach is very similar to that of Prachov Rocks except that the sandstone towers reach heights of more than 100m. Again protection on these towers is via spaced fixed rings and/or the placing of slings. However there is also a sport climbing area here (called Krizovy hill) that is well bolted and chalk is also permitted.
The author Gerald Krug has written an article describing the rock climbing at Labske Udoli.