The rock climbing in Southern Corsica is dominated by Bavella, a spectacular granite mountain range with steep summits. Though it is only 15km from the coast, this mountain massif reaches a height of almost 2,000m. The climbing at Bavella is all about adventurous multi-pitch big wall routes between 250m and 300m long, though there are some single pitch sport routes as well. Bavella comprises of a series of granite towers, such as Tafunatu di Paliri and Punta di l’ Acellu, all of which are located around the Col de Bavella.
Even the approaches to the multi-pitch routes at Bavella are often adventurous and complicated. This is due to a Mediterranean shrub called Maquis that grows wild and can hide paths, making a 1-hour approach into an all-day epic at worst. The rewards for all this effort are superb granite walls in a remote location. Though many routes at Bavella have been recently re-bolted, these multi-pitch routes are mainly mixed routes with spaced bolts and the need for trad gear such as nuts, cams and slings – just to add to the adventure.
The Bavella rock climbing guidebook is a comprehensive guidebook covering the multi-pitch routes at Bavella. The Grandes Voies de Corse guidebook (Traditional multi-pitch climbing in Corsica) covers a selection of the more popular multi-pitch routes at Bavella, whilst the Falaises de Corse guidebook covers the single and double pitch routes.
There are many other climbing areas and bouldering areas in Southern Corsica as shown on the map. These are on a mixture of limestone and granite rock, and almost exclusively single pitch routes. Two of the larger crags are at Maca Croci and Petra Piomba. The Falaises de Corse guidebook covers the sport climbing routes at all of these crags.
All the bouldering in Southern Corsica is on granite rock. This varies between locations in the mountains at places such as Bavella, in beautiful woods at Valdu di Saltu, or by the sea at Capineru and Palombaggie. Valdu di Saltu is the largest bouldering area in Southern Corsica. The Corsica Bloc bouldering guidebook covers all of these bouldering areas in Southern Corsica.
The best time to climb at Bavella is either late spring or early autumn. The climate is a typical Mediterranean environment with hot summers and snow in the winter. The other areas in Southern Corsica that are at lower levels can be climbed from the autumn through to the spring.
The best International Airport for southern Corsica is the Aiacciu (Ajaccio) Napoleon Bonaparte Airport located in Western Corsica.
Rock climbing areas in Southern Corsica
|No||Crag||Rock Type||Climbing Style|
|1||Col de la Tana||Granite||Sport Climbing|
|2||Maca Croci||Granite||Sport Climbing|
|3||Valdu di Saltu||Granite||Bouldering|
|4||Petra piomba||Granite||Sport Climbing|
|9||Le Barring||Granite||Sport Climbing|
|10||A Vacca||Granite||Sport Climbing|
|12||Piscia di Ghjaddu||Granite||Sport Climbing|
|14||Punta di tichjonu||Granite||Sport Climbing|
The Falaises de Corse guidebook details all the sport climbing on the island of Corsica.