Moonarie – South Australia’s Trad climbing destination by Rob Baker

The rock climbing at Moonarie

Moonarie offers a varied trad climbing experience, with a good range of intermediate to difficult routes. There is very little in the way of sport routes, but the trad climbing is fantastic as the quality of the rock makes it ideal for placing protection. The rock has a similar feel to Arapiles, with the same mixture of natural gear and the occasional bolt. Although there are some easy routes, experienced intermediate and advanced climbers will get the most out of Moonarie. The climbing starts in the low teens and stretches up into the high 20s (Australian Ewbank Grading system). This converts to, F5 to F7c+ (French) or VS to E6 (UK trad climbing scale). The climbing varies from single pitch excursions to long multi-pitch routes that wind their way up to the rim of the Pound.

Moonarie is a wilderness cliff, where the traditional style of placing your own protection applies. On many of the newer routes there is some fixed protection and there are a few fully equipped sport routes to be found. The usual rack of wires and cams/Friends should be carried. Often a few long slings and big nuts will come in handy as will medium to large Hexes or Friends for the older classics like Pagoda, GRRC and Nervine. Most styles of climbing are found at Moonarie, with lots of corners, overhangs, walls and open faces. Many lines follow impressive corner and crack systems. Slab climbing is not well represented. The climbing is often steep and direct: expect to find some sustained sections above protection, which makes the routes engaging and exhilarating! The protection is generally very good. Unlike Arapiles, where there are many excellent routes under grade 12, this grade tends to be the starting point for quality climbing at Moonarie.

The rock is Pound quartzite sandstone, which ranges in colour from yellow to crimson and in texture from fine grained smoothness to coarse roughness. The rock is usually sound and has good friction.

The main cliffs on the rim of the Pound near Top Camp are around 100 -120m high but there are many quality single pitch routes from 10 - 25m on the surrounding crags and walls. These are great for the less adventurous or as a change and different perspective from the multi-pitch routes on the main walls.

One of the most striking features of Moonarie is the famed Great Wall -a spectacular stretch of rich red vertical rock 50 metres high that offers some of the best climbing in the area. The Great Wall is the home of possibly the best 19 in the Australia, Downwind of Angels. Downwind of Angels is only the beginning of the good routes on this wall. There is also Outside Chance (16**), the amazing looking Dry Land (22***), and a host of other starred routes in the low to mid 20s. The Great Wall is only one area of Moonarie. Other parts of the crag such as Checkers Wall, the Ramparts, Flying Buttress and The Great Chimney area are just as spectacular. Moonarie is a crag rich in classics.